Intoxication ... The white truffle fair in Alba
I've heard there are people who do not like truffles - I simply can't believe it. If you held a competition amongst the Earth's natural elements judged by how much they provoke an insatiable, passionate desire for more and the premium price they demand per gram, a truffle, or tartufi, would rank amongst the world's highest, including such things as Gold (at the time of this post, Gold was £34 per gram and white truffles were going for £41).
At its most simple, a truffle is a mushroom that grows underground on the root of a tree, generally English Oak, most famously in Northern & Central Italy, Southern France, and parts of Croatia. At its most complex, the truffle is an elusive gem, requiring perfect conditions to manifest, hiding quietly, swelling larger, until the hunter's dog tracks its intoxicating aroma and digs it up - the hunter dusts it off in the crisp morning air and takes a vast, deep inhale of its musty dampness to judge its value {pause with me here to bask in this moment of bliss … I can soooo smell it right now}.
Chefs and home cooks around the world subconsciously sigh in delight each time a truffle is pulled from the Earth and celebrate in jubilation when they have the rare chance to use the royal ingredient in one of their meals. This time of year, all throughout Alba and the beautiful rolling hills of the Langhe, Italian restaurants offer special menus that celebrate the aromatic funghi. Usually the plate is simple, with a buttered tajarin pasta or fried egg as the base, and truffle shavings on top. Num, num, num. Not to be missed (for a couple ideas check out Eat Truffles like an Italian).
Each Fall, the small town of Alba in Piemonte, Italy holds its annual white truffle fair, where the local hunters, trifolao, come to show off their seasonal collection and require top money for their wares. Glass cases line the hall displaying their trophies, while would-be-buyers (and those just there for a smell) walk by and admire their presence. Crumpled up photos of the hunters' dogs are scattered about to show respect for the true heroes of the celebration. Ruff!
Even if you do not intend to buy a truffle, walking the tiny streets of Alba all abuzz, grabbing a glass at the fair for tasting the local wines on offer, and browsing the handmade pastas, local olive oils and hazelnuts (a Piemonte hyper local specialty! Erhem, Nutella anyone?) is well worth a trip to the region during this special autumn harvest festival.
Oh, and here I neglected to mention the area is also home to some of the best wines in the world .. All hail Queen Barbaresco and King Barolo … but that is for another post.
Go to Alba. Eat their truffles (and hazelnuts). Drink their Barolo.
